Ideas for a new tree to replace an old beauty

We recently had to take down a gorgeous (and likely very oversized) maple in our yard due to rot in most boughs and the trunk. We were so so devastated to lose this monster -- it provided great shade and screening. But it was unsafe.

We want to plant a new tree nearby (but understand it needs to be at least 3 feet from the old, ground trunk) this fall/winter. Does anyone have a type of tree in their yard that they love? We would like something that will eventually provide some privacy / a screen, but are very open. We're on a decent sized lot (5k sq ft) but the arborist told us the maple was way too big, so looking for something that won't hit 80+ feet.

I know we can ask at the nurseries, but hoping some tree enthusiasts want to share what's worked well for them!

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I'd like to put in a plug for a native tree. They are powerhouses in providing for native birds, animals and pollinators.

Go to Calscape, put in your zip code, and it'll return a list of trees native to your area along with a bunch of their properties, including size and speed of growth, water needs, and how many species of native pollinators they support. We have a small but mighty set of nurseries that concentrate on California natives that would also be happy to help out with questions and choice.

+1 for native trees! Calscape is a great reference to choose plants, and nurseries nearby like Oaktown Native, East Bay Wilds, Native Here, and Berkeley Horticultural (they have a native section) all would be helpful. I'd also add in some of the links below might be helpful as a comparison of the wildlife benefits of native plants versus non native: 
https://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/douglas-tallamy-resources
 

I second the plug for native trees! It's awesome watching birds, butterflies, and other critters enjoy the plants and trees in our yard that they co-evolved alongside. I highly recommend going to locally-run nurseries (over "big box stores" like Home Depot) where the folks working there can give you specialized advice. I particularly like East Bay Nursery, Oaktown Native Plant Nursery, and Annie's Annuals. They have very knowledgeable staff. 

Since the Bay Area has many "micro-climates" you may need to go into detail on how much fog/sun/wind you get to determine what will grow there. Spend some time tracking these elements and getting to know your area. A tree that does well in one area may not thrive in the next town over. Take a walk in your neighborhood and note which trees thrive there and which ones you like. I like to use the "Seek" app from iNaturalist to help me identify plant species and then I can take notes on what will grow in my garden. 

One word of caution: Do NOT opt for a "fast growing" anything. If it's "fast-growing" now, it will be fast growing for the rest of its life. Many of those plants then become invasive (and impossible to contain). Unless it's an annual/biannual, most plants don't hit a target height and then stop growing. I think many new gardeners get into trouble wanting a big tree or a full garden quickly, and not taking into account that trees operate on a different time scale. 

Good luck!

We have 2 trees on our property that I especially like. One is the ginkgo. It has lovely yellow leaves in the fall. A beautiful leaf shape. The other tree we planted in our parking strip. It is a Chinese pistache. Has gorgeous flame colored leaves in the fall. Both trees are great for shade, but have no leaves in the winter. Both are about 20 feet tall. Neither is particularly messy except for the fall leaf drop. 

The best way to find a good tree is to walk around your neighborhood and see what your neighbors have.  Take pictures of trees that you like that seem to be thriving. There is no tree, not even a California native, that will like whatever spot you plunk it down in, and there are a LOT of micro climates just in the East Bay. But if it's growing well in your neighbor's yard, it will probably grow in your yard too. Research the tree's light and water requirements.  Does it like to get sun all day? Or does it like some shade from a tall redwood or nearby hill? Will it get water all year from the surrounding garden or from a creek? Many native trees that are not riparian will rot if their roots get summer water. Do you want a flowering tree or an evergreen tree? Do you mainly want shade or do you mainly want spring flowers or fall color? Does it have pollen that will bother family members? or fruits that are hard to clean up? How tall will it get (and is that OK for your site?)  In my front yard, which is sunny,  I have a mature dogwood that I love, and a magnolia that is so pretty in the spring, though neither have leaves in the winter.  Those are both favorites in my neighborhood too. In the back I have a bunch of 50 year old camellia bushes that grew into trees that are now drought tolerant, evergreen, and gorgeous when they bloom. And a giant live oak in the corner that shades everything.  I love them all!