Fruit Trees

Parent Q&A

Select any title to view the full question and replies.

  • We're in the midst of a major landscape renovation on our property in the lower Berkeley hills and thinking about what fruit trees we want to put in when we reach the planting stage. We have--and are keeping--a mulberry tree that thrives and a dwarf Meyer lemon that generally does well but hasn't fruited in 12-18 months, probably because it didn't get enough water. (This will be remedied by our project.) Both pre-dated us and I'd guess are 10+ years old. The property also had another unidentified citrus that always struggled, though we were never able to concretely diagnose the issue. We'll likely add three more trees, all in a location that gets a lot of sun and is protected from deer. We'll talk to local nurseries, but would love to hear from homeowners what trees have worked particularly well for you, or conversely, what you would NOT recommend based on your experience. Specific varietals would be helpful if you know them. 

    Our criteria are for trees that are relatively low maintenance, not pest-prone, will fruit consistently beginning in 1-2 years or less, and are REALLY DELICIOUS. 

    Here's what we're considering: 

    • Fig
    • Fuyu persimmon 
    • Apple (possibly as Espalier against wall)
    • Plum 
    • Additional citrus tree-- grapefruit or oro blanco, kumquat, orange, non-Meyer lemon 

    Thanks!! 

    My neighbor has a mini orchard and has many amazing fruit trees. 

    One tree produces plums and apricots from one tree. It's delicious and so awesome to get 2 different types of fruits from one tree. Their fig tree is beautiful, smells amazing, and very delicious. Another unique tree they have is Pineapple Guava tree -- fruits are delicious and you can't really buy them at the store.  Loquat is a tree that I see a lot in our neighborhood. It's delicious and another unique fruit that you don't see in stores. We had an apple tree that unfortunately died from fire blight. This is a common disease and lethal. :-( This disease hits pear trees as well. Our plum tree is maintenance free and is very (too) prolific.  Not exactly a big tree, but our neighbor's pomegranate tree/bush is a little gem that we appreciate. 

    Fuyu persimmons are gorgeous - the leaves as well as the fruit, and the bare branches, too. But they won't start fruiting very much for some years - as many as 6 or 7. 

    Plums produce so prolifically around here you will be giving away bags of them!

    Pretty much all citrus does well - but oranges are challenging, as we don't get much heat, and heat makes sweet.

    Another delightful option is an apricot - many different varieties do well here!

    Best of luck!

    We have all of the trees you're considering (and a few more to boot!) Some things to think about:

    • Do you have pets? Our dog loves to eat fallen fruit. Consider how you will place and maintain trees if that's a factor. Persimmon and plum are especially rough for dogs to eat.
    • Do you need any screening from these trees? All but citrus will be bare in winter, if that's a factor. Loquat is a great option if you want something that will be green year round and will fill out more than citrus will (but is also a problem for dogs). Feijoa is smaller, but a nice evergreen landscaping option too. Both can take some time to get established before they fruit.
    • Plums can be prolific! Make sure you plant a variety you like. Our Santa Rosa grows incredibly quickly though so is a good contender to fill in a space fast. Consider multi-graft trees and also pluots.
    • Do you have raccoons where you live? They looooove persimmons. They break branches on both our plum and persimmon trees almost every year with their parties. I would not plant persimmon again for this reason--it's a huge headache. (We have both Fuyu and Hachiya—Fuyu is slightly less of an issue.)
    • Apples can be tricky since they're prone to lots of pests. I still think it's worth growing them, but be prepared for maintenance. Stay on top of any symptoms and if you care about worms, consider bagging the fruit when they're small. Ours is a Gravenstein so it fruits in summer; there are also fall varieties.
    • We also have oranges, lemons, limes, and oro blanco. We do not get enough sun (in the Oakland flats) for the oro blanco to fruit well so have never had fruit get to maturity. The other three do well. If you get good direct sun yours may do better.

    We don't live in deer territory, so I can't speak to those issues. Raccoons, rats, and squirrels are our biggest problems (and they are BIG problems). Although we love our fruit trees, we're opting to replace some of them with non-fruiting trees as they reach end of life to better manage the critter issues.

    Our old house had two apple trees and while they were fun and yummy, I also felt like a terrible failure because every fall, the apple trees would just start dumping fruit like crazy all at once.  I would try to pick apples frequently, and I always thought about trying to organize something where friends, neighbors, a food bank, etc. helped me but never quite got around to it.  I ended up composting a lot of apples.

    Climate is a big factor in fruit-tree choice.  Around here, our summers are too cold and our winters too warm for a lot of fruit trees.  And many fruit trees require a lot of water.

    Citrus other than lemon is often not successful around here, because most types need summer heat to sweeten the fruit.  Grapefruit is particularly problematic.  You might do okay with a mandarin next to or espaliered against a warm wall.  Citrus are shallow-rooted so need regular water; they also need a lot of iron and nitrogen, and can get scale infestations.

    Many figs also need more heat than we have -- not to mention fewer squirrels!  These are also trees to plant/espalier by a warm wall.  I've done well with Brown Turkey and Excel.  A great thing about figs is that they need relatively little water and are pretty easy to maintain.

    Persimmons like water -- during dry years we siphon out the bath water onto the persimmon's soil, otherwise all the fruit falls off unripe.

    Apples, plums, pears, peaches, apricots, etc. need a pollination partner of a different variety or you will get little or no fruit. If your neighbor has a suitable sweetie for your tree, you may be OK, but not all trees of the same species will be suitable.  You can get trees with multiple grafts like 4-way apple trees to ensure pollination, but frankly most of those trees have the same varieties you can buy at the grocery store.  You can also close-plant fruit trees so they dwarf each other through competition; planted this way, they don't take up much more space than single trees.  Or if you're ambitious, you can graft additional varieties onto your own trees.

    Apples: My favorites that I grow are Golden Russet, Cinnamon Spice, Esopus Spitzenburg, Gravenstein, and White Pearmain.  Note that apples need a certain amount of cold weather to break dormancy properly.  This is a reason NOT to espalier an apple against a wall -- the tree wants cold!  If I could, I'd grow Ashmead's Kernel, but it's not cold enough in our flatland yard. But maybe your yard is cold enough?

    For a good selection of fruit-tree varieties, try Trees of Antiquity (www.treesofantiquity.com).  They especially have fantastic apple trees (try to stick with their Zone 10 recommendations). Another good source is Raintree Nursery (raintreenursery.com).  These are mail-order operations, and while getting a tree that way may seem strange, it's often the best way to go.  After all, trees sold in nurseries are also shipped bare-root around the country.)

    Finally, consider planting pineapple guava, aka feijoa.  The trees are lovely, with gray-green evergreen leaves.  The flower petals are sweet and edible and a favorite with birds.  It's the fruit my neighbors ask for, it's expensive in the stores, the trees are easy to take care of, and they don't need a lot of water.  They only problem is being sure of pollination -- our tree is self-fertile but some varieties are not.

    We've had good luck with Satsuma mandarin tree in two different Albany/N. Berkeley locations.  Tolerates some drought and neglect (though of course prefers to to!).

    We have the Owari variety, which is a semi-dwarf variety.

    We've also benefitted from our generous neighbor's prolific (mission?) fig tree, but I see that it grows quite large, if that is a consideration.

    We have the most prolific cherry tree in our yard! We also had a lovely mulberry tree, but the neighborhood deer loved it a little too much. We purchased both from Westbrae Nursery. 

    Reply now  »
  • Hello! Here's the background on this question: my parents have lived for several decades on a 2 acre property in the East Bay and during that time have cultivated dozens of fruit trees including stone fruits, apples, pears, nuts, olive trees, grape vines, and berry bushes.  Somehow they managed this with little and at times no hired help in addition to making wine and olive oil while also working and raising three children (I still don't understand how).  They have put a lot of time and energy into learning about organic farming and applying their knowledge.  Late last year, my dad passed away, and my mom, though fit and healthy for her age, cannot imagine continuing to manage this over the long term, though loves the house and the property and is not ready to move.  Does anyone have a recommendation for a professional, nonprofit group, company, etc who would be qualified to manage this property for her and our family - continue cultivating the plants and managing harvests? I imagine our family would want to continue being involved (helping with harvest days, wine making etc) but want to find someone to direct and oversee things.  I imagine this would be above and beyond the typical landscaping and gardening company.  Ideas welcome, thank you!

    If it were me, I would send an inquiry to the farmers market coordinators of the markets near me for referrals.

    I also think this is a good time to make sure that the activities on the farm are legal in terms of zoning, business activity, etc., and also do some hard thinking with your mom and siblings about what the business relationship would ideally be. Paid employee? Lessor/lessee? Partner? Clearing the air on these things will set the stage for a good business relationship going forward.

    You should ask at the Biofuel Oasis on Sacramento in Berkeley. One of the owners is Novella Carpenter, who is famous for urban farming. 

    Hello!

    Bj Sheehan (925) 818-5293 does landscape design and management. He's incredibly knowledgeable about a broad range of plants and can help to manage land as well as teach you how to do it. He's helped us and my grandparents on numerous occasions. Good luck!

    Someone mentioned Biofuel Oasis. They're a good resource.

    I strongly recommend talking with Yolanda from Pollinate. Her former brick-and-mortar shop, closed during the lockdown, was a treasure for us when we were growing food and raising chickens nearby -- we'd pop in there often for supplies and advice. Nowadays she's running a four-property farm and offers various levels of help and mentoring.

    Hi there,

    I work for a well known and loved Bay Area organic  orchard doing marketing.  We have an amazing crew of highly skilled people who are especially versed in tree care and fruit harvests but are incredibly adept in all things plant care and irrigation.  They are typically interested in side work.  They are not versed in wine making or olive pressing. I don’t think they could manage your farm since they are employed full time but they could most certainly take excellent care of it.  

    If you’d like to learn more please feel to contact me. 

  • We are looking to re-do our front yard and back yard. We are especially interested in adding more fruit trees, raised gardening beds, and maximizing the space for edible landscaping, while also having a space that is beautiful and easy to manage. Any recommendations are appreciated! I don't think we need a landscape architect, but we also want to remove the concrete steps leading to our porch and replace with something more aesthetically pleasing. 

    We have been working with Patrick Sunbury who has a farm himself!

    I highly recommend Janice Nicol, whose company is YardKit. www.yardkit.com She did our design to help us redo our yard, which was in major need of an overhaul. And we love it! We have great raised veggie planting beds as part of her design (in the same material as our deck so it looks great!) and I know she's knowledgable about trees and could work with the wholesale nursery to get you the right fruit trees (she helped us find a persimmon and a magnolia we were hoping for). 

Archived Q&A and Reviews

 


I want a lemon tree -- need advice

June 2010

I want to plant a lemon tree. That's all I know. We have a sunny spot. I want a tree, but a guarantee that it won't get too big (2nd story is too big). No invasive roots (there's sidewalks not too far away).

Any advice about lemon trees? Which type is easy and fruitful? Are meyer lemons flavorless when home-grown? Should I get a miniature (my inclination is for a regular-sized one, but do some varieties grow too big)?

One of the possible locations has water pipes buried below. If necessary, there's a second spot without that problem.

I am so jealous of everyone with messages about too many lemons! Oooh, and where to buy? Can I plant it now, or is there an optimal time of year? Any special care tips? thank you, BPN community anne


You can get a lemon on dwarf stock. It will grow to a maximum of 15' tall, usually much smaller. Lemons can also be pruned to keep the tree smaller and fruit within reach. Meyer lemons are my favorite, fragrant and juicy. Lemon trees like heat, a good hot full sun spot is best. Lemons trees can be damaged in winter freezes, so a spot near your home can work well because the ambiant heat from your home will keep it a degree or two warmer than if it were further out. Roots on dwarf lemon trees are not invasive, I've seen them planted very close to paving, although its not ideal. Dwarf lemons can also grow in a large pot and can look attractive on a patio grouped with smaller flower filled pots. Sue


We have a Meyer lemon tree that was already there when we bought the house. I love it! It has very fragrant flowers and lots of fruit almost year round. I keep it smallish (about 5-6ft) by occasional pruning. It is up against the house and close to the french drain which is probably not ideal but the drain still works! I water it a couple of times a week in the summer and feed with a citrus fertilizer in the spring. Many nurseries carry Meyer lemons - Berkeley Hort is my favorite. Spring or fall are the best times for planting. Laura


Where to buy an avocado tree

Dec 2009

I'd like to plant an avocado tree and have heard there are quick-fruiting (two years) trees. Does anyone know a good place to buy avocado trees, either online or at a store locally? I like Trees of Antiquity (online) for other fruits but they don't have avocado. tree fan


Spiral Gardens on Sacramento at Oregon in Berkeley sells avocado trees. They often sell things close to their cost since it is also a community food project site. Melanie


I've had good luck with trees from Berkeley Horticulture, and ESPECIALLY good experience (and better prices) from Adachi in El Sobrante. Marilyn


I was just at the Berkeley Horticultural Nursery near Monterey Market, (Hopkins St.) in N. Berkeley, and they had some avocado trees. S. Carter


Try Yabusaki's Dwight Way Nursery on Dwight between 9th and 10th in Berkeley. They've got lots of fruit trees and seem to know just about everything about them. They're also very friendly and it's a family-owned business. C


Moving an Olive Tree

Dec 2009

We planted an Olive tree in our backyard 2 years ago but now think it would look better in a different location. Does anyone know if it's easy to move an olive tree or how to do it? I've looked at various websites but they all refer to old (100 yrs.,etc.) Olive trees and the need to hire a professional. The tree originally cost us less than $100 but we would hate to kill it by moving it since it is one of the few trees we have. Any advice would be appreciated. Lori


Moving an Olive that's only been in the ground 2 years should not be difficult.

Look to see if it is dormant. No flowering, fruiting or new growth should be occuring.

Measure the caliper (diameter) of the trunk at the ground. For every one inch caliper, dig a ball one foot in diameter. You can make this a little larger if you like.

Replant immediately in new location, making sure to set the top of the root ball slightly high relative to the existing ground. Your hole should be at least 6 inches in radius larger than the ball. Ray


 

What kind of fruit tree for Berkeley Hills?

Feb 2009

Looking for recommendations for fruit trees. We know we need to get dwarf varieties. We live in the Berkeley Hills and have a Meyer Lemon that does well. I'd love to have a cherry tree. Can anyone recommend one suitable to my area? Can anyone recommend any others? Also, where is the best place to buy? Thank you in advance.


Just because you're space limited, you don't need to get dwarf trees, just get standard trees and prune them to the size you want. This is Berkeley Hort's philosophy, and it seems a good one (and you ought to check them out, as they run free classes, e.g., on pruning fruit trees)... when trees are bred to be dwarfs, they're selected for size, not taste, etc. Trees that seem to do well around here would include figs and apricots... peach leaf curl dissuaded us from nectarines. If you want a deciduous tree, you might try persimmon (or fig), though the squirrels do a number on ours almost every year... when we can wrest a crop out of their nasty little paws, they're quite tasty. But do talk to Berkeley Hort re dwarf vs. standard varieties. Albany Gardener


There are lots of wonderful local nurseries, but I think the best one for help choosing edible plants and trees that will thrive and produce in your location is Spiral Gardens at 2830 Sacramento in Berkeley. They have good inventory, too. I also got good ideas on the Bay Friendly Garden Tour last April. Heidi


We live near the campus in Berkeley and we adore our Santa Rosa plum. I think it might be a semi-dwarf, which is a great size for a patio area. Just don't go away at the end of June, beginning of July or you'll miss the plums! anon


Squirrels (we think) eating our fruit

May 2007

Help! We recently spent several hundred dollars on fruit trees and we've found some broken branches and fruit scattered near the base of the young trees. Our guess is squirrels, could it be birds? In any case, does anybody know any ecofriendly way to save our trees/fruit from these pesky creatures? Love my home-grown fruit


It could be rats too. In my case, a few years back a few rats (saw them and trapped them) targeted my fruit trees. In addition to whatever you decide to do about getting rid of the annoying creature, you might consider stripping the trees of ALL fruit ASAP, as that will remove the attractive food source. In my case, the rats not only ate the fruit, but painstakingly stripped a lot of tender bark off the tree's branches, severely stressing it. I watered and fertilized it (something I had never done) for a while afterward to support its recovery. It recovered fine and is/was a lovely tree. Jennifer


It could be squirrels, and if you've seen them at work during the day then it probably is- but you would be seeing them busy scurrying around.

If you're not seeing a lot of squirrel activity, then I hate to tell you this, but it's probably roof rats (who don't just live in roofs and attics)- they love fruit, will even eat lemons (the peel), and are very common. They are nocturnal so you don't see them at work.

For squirrels, there are a few things to try to do to outwit them. You can put fake plastic hawks, owls, and snakes in your fruit trees- these are all natural squirrel predators and may fool some of the squirrels some of the time. You can also try hanging aluminum pie tins in your trees, but you have to hang a lot in order to have any chance of spooking them.

And/or, you can fasten a 12' wide band of sheet metal around the trunks about 6' from the ground, and/or cage the trees in chicken wire.

One thing that will help slow the squirrels down a bit is to keep the canopies of your trees far enough apart and far enough from roofs that the squirrels can't leap through the air easily from tree to tree.

But squirrels are very clever and hard to defeat, so, in lieu of buying a rifle, I've relaxed and have adopted the approach of ''sharing''- they can have some as long as they leave me plenty, and that generally works out okay.

However, when I finally realized that it was rats, not squirrels, who were seriously decimating my fruity back garden, my desire to share with nature's creatures flew out the window and I bought a couple of rat traps and a big jar of peanut butter.

It turns out that rats are clever too, and 3 out of 4 times they get the bait without the trap getting them, but the fourth time the trap gets them. It's yucky, but I'm not going to pay an exterminator to do what I can do myself, and I won't use rat poison- the rats live inside my shear-walling and that's where they'd crawl off to to die their gruesome poisoned death and let's not even talk about that smell.

Raccoons and possoms and skunks also visit my garden- the raccoons come mostly for persimmon season, the possoms liked my grape vine (but since I took it out I haven't seen any), and skunks will eat most anything. All of these guys are also nocturnal, so squirrels may be taking the rap for their feasting. Cece


Green figs, not purple

Sept 2006

Does anyone know where I can buy a green fig tree? (We don't like the purple ones as much.) Thanks! Figless-on-CurtisSt


We bought a green fig (Conadria) at Berkeley Hort a while back and it's been great. It was just a bare stick (!) but it's totally leafed out and is going crazy with delicious figs. The nice thing about green figs is apparently the birds don't go after them as much (they think green means un-ripe) Fig Happy