Where to Live for a Job at UC Berkeley
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Looking for a good neighborhood for a job at UC Berkeley
June 2014
I am planning to accept a position at UC Berkeley and trying to sort out where I should be looking to live with my wife and 9 year old daughter. We will be moving long distance to the bay area. I have some must haves, and some nice to haves and I'm hoping someone can help me understand the tradeoffs for different areas and which I should not consider at all.
Must Haves: Safe neighborhood Good School Less than 45 minute commute to campus via car At least 2 bedrooms Sub $2500 rent
Nice to Haves: Less than 30 minute commute to campus via car 3+ bedrooms Sub $2000 rent Townhouse or Single Family Home
I know I can't have all the nice to haves, but is it possible to have any of them given my must haves? I have been reading the other recommendations, some appear to be a little older. But I am thinking that Walnut Creek, Emeryville or San Leandro might be good places to look, but I'm not entirely sure about commute times. Thanks very much for having us in this community and for any advice you can offer.
I live in Lafayette and I love it here! It's only a short drive through the caldacot tunnel to Berkeley and we have some of the best schools in California! For $2500 you could rent a small two bedroom home, it's more like $3000 for a three bedroom. It's very safe here and friendly and is well worth the expense.
If you're looking in Walnut Creek it's a little further out from Berkeley, maybe 30-40 minutes commute with traffic. Only 15 minute commute without. Make sure you look at the Walnut Creek school district area, not Mt Diablo school district which is also in walnut creek but is a much larger school district. There are a few elementary schools in Walnut Creek school district that are great such as Buena Vista Elementary and Parkmead Elem. You should look at greatschools.com to read the reviews on the school that your considering putting your child in before renting a home there. Best of luck! Alicia
A lot of my answer to your question will depend on how you define 'safe.' Do you mean generally safe, but with a fair amount of crime (most of Emeryville) or downright safe, like you can walk around at night without a concern (most of Walnut Creek)? A commute from Walnut Creek to UCB (depending of course, on how far you are from the freeway in WCR) will take about 30 minutes without traffic. Good luck with your search
You could consider Moraga or Lafayette. Moraga is semi-rural. Lafayette is more happening. If you are willing to do a 2BR townhouse you might be able to get one for $2500 or less and the best place to see if that is true at this point in time is to check craigslist. The schools are very good, and closer commute to Berkeley than Walnut Creek. anon
Hi I recommend you look hard at Albany. The houses are small and pricey for the size because the schools are good. Plus the community has a lot available. The Albany YMCA runs a headstart program and after school care for school age kids. They also run a full summer camp schedule, a youth in government program and model UN for high school aged kids. The community is civic minded, the school district is good and well run. Albany is safer than many other areas close by. No one is truly 'safe' from crime in the Eastbay. We are too close to areas of high unemployment. It's common to have your car stolen. your bicycles stolen, and your house broken into. Join a neighborhood association when you move. Your neighbors can help you figure things out. You are safe on the street, walking to school or the library. Its a wonderful place to live - it's just an urban area with all the good (theater, diversity, restaurants, culture) and the bad that implies. long time resident
Try Lamorinda . The small towns of Lafayette, Orinda, and Moraga (Lamorinda) are beautiful, safe and have excellent schools. Walnut Creek is also safe and has great schools. WC is larger and is a little farther from Berkeley. You can check school ratings on the greatschools website.
Depending on the time of day, the commute can be long or short. Commuters have to drive though a tunnel which is stop-and-go traffic at peak times. Alternately, you can take BART from these towns to UC Berkeley.
Moraga has many rentals, and it is definitely possible to find a 2+ bedroom rental between $2k - $2.5k per month. Craigslist is a great way to find a rental. Good luck!
You should check out El Cerrito . Much closer to UC than Walnut Creek and San Leandro, and safer and cheaper than Emeryville. Don't know much about the schools in those areas but I think El Cerrito schools are pretty good- some better than others, of course (Madera is considered to be a great school, Harding and Fairmont both have good reputations, and parts of El Cerrito go to the adjacent town of Kensington, which I hear is excellent). We rent a 3 bdrm house with a great yard for less than $1800 (this is probably a little lower than the norm but I know of several others who also rent great houses for less than $2k). It's about 20min to UC driving through town. It's safe and very family friendly and has a small town feeling, which is cool. Main drawback is there are very few good restaurants around here! (It's the only thing I miss from our old neighborhood in N. Oakland.) anon
Definitely look into Alameda. It's a nice, safe, family-oriented city. Rentals are hard to come by, but it wouldn't hurt to look.
Since you'll be working at Berkeley, you should check out Cal Rentals. They actually have people you can talk to about finding places/communities to live: http://calrentals.housing.berkeley.edu
I work on campus and live in El Cerrito , and it's a very family-friendly community (good schools*, great community center/pool) and a 20-25 minute surface street commute (plus there are two BART stations and buses) to campus, and you could probably rent a house for your budget. It can get a little boring here, but it's not too far from Berkeley and San Francisco. We have a few good restaurants, a farmer's market, an off- the-grid night, a movie theater that serves pizza and beer and first-run movies, and the best damn hardware store (Pastime).
(*All the k-6 schools are good, and your kid will be assigned to your neighborhood school; whatever Bay Area community you decide on, visit the school district website to check out the boundary maps. You can also check all California school statistics here: http://www.cde.ca.gov/ta/ac/ap/.) Good luck on your move
I read all the responses about areas with good neighborhoods and a reasonable commute to Berkeley. Lots of people commented on the safety and nice neighborhoods in Walnut Creek, Lafayette, Orinda and Moraga. I can't add anything to that-- they are all excellent areas, have absolutely beautiful hillsides, hiking only minutes away, top schools, safe neighborhoods, etc. Both my kids got excellent educations and got into elite universities coming from the local public school system.
People commented on the commute to Berkeley from various towns in the east bay. I have been commuting from Lafayette to Berkeley for work for 15+ years. Here's what I want to add that I didn't see in any comments: the commute from Lafayette to Berkeley is 22 minutes door to door for me and is an absolutely breath-taking drive and one that I look forward to. On more than one occasion I have pulled over to take a photo of the views with my iPhone. I have a very short drive via highway from Lafayette to Fish Ranch Road. Then I either go Grizzly Peak or Fish Ranch road over the hill into Berkeley. Driving from El Cerrito to Berkeley through stop lights and traffic may take the same amount of time, but wouldn't be the same type of commute. The commute rarely takes me more than 25 minutes, no matter what the time of day. barbara
Neither is a great commute. HOV lane is virtually a non-factor on 80 from Hercules because it is so congested and frequent accidents delay everyone. There is no HOV option on Hwy 24 from Concord. However, if you lived in Concord, you could potentially take BART to Berkeley (long ride). Where in Berkeley you will be working is another potential factor. If it's at the lab, say, I'd say look at Moraga or Montclair. If it's downtown, I'd think seriously about San Leandro within walking distance to BART. No matter what, remember jobs are "temporary" in the big scheme of things; think about where your kids are going to attend school and where you are going to be most likely to make friends. P.S. I don't know what you mean by the North Bay, are you looking in Marin too? Also terrible commute to Berkeley.
Concord gets very hot.I have friends who moved from there as surprisingly in the Bay Area the weather varies a lot.I would look at Hercules,Pinole and El Sobrante.I agree that looking at the schools is a big part of the decision.Richmond Annex used to be affordable but may be too much now
I wouldn’t choose to live in Concord because MDUSD is a mess. The district is way too large and underfunded. I have been a parent at a decent school within MDUSD and I am moving away this summer.
Also traffic is a nightmare going towards SF/Berkeley in the morning. I would suggest looking at maybe El Cerrito?
Hercules would require a commute on Hwy 80, and when I was living in the Hilltop district in Richmond (just south of Hercules) my commute to the Oakland/Berkeley border was 1 full hour each way. And that was on a good day with no accidents or incidents on the roadway. So, getting to Hercules would add another 15-20 minutes to that commute. I live in El Cerrito now, and it takes me 25 minutes each way. Plus, there is a lovely bike path that runs along the BART train route that makes commuting to work by bicycle (40 minutes by bike) super safe and fun. If you can look at El Cerrito, the commute would be much better than either Hercules or Concord. The community is very diverse and has restaurants, shops and a Natural Grocery Store.
There is no HOV lane on 24, and I'm not sure there are HOV lanes on that stretch of 680 to get to 24. The HOV lane on 80 coming from Hercules is pretty full. Lots of people here drive EVs, including myself. I think BART is a viable option if you live in Concord. Berkeley has 3 BART stops: one in north Berkeley, one in downtown, and one in south Berkeley, so it depends on where your jobs are. Transit options from Hercules are pretty limited. I live and work in Berkeley but if I had to choose out of those two options, I would probably pick Concord.
I commute on Hwy 24 to Berkeley 3 days a week, from Walnut Creek to UC-Berkeley. Typically, I go on M,T,TH during rush hour. It takes me about 30 minutes on Mondays (morning and afternoon), and 45 mins on T & Th mornings, and about an hour going home on T & Th. There have been Tuesdays when it's longer going home, but generally an hour. There is no HOV lane on 24. 40 minutes from either of those places on a Tuesday seems a bit unrealistic, but is possible on Mondays- so it also depends which days you are going in.
You didn't say how old your kids are, but the schools vary. When we moved to Walnut Creek (from a nearby school district) we started with school districts and worried less about the commute, as my youngest is going to be in the district for 13 years. If you are doing private school and it doesn't matter about the public school district then look at Richmond Hills, or El Cerrito- it checks all your boxes of more affordable than Berkeley, diverse, nice, and things to do. We have lots of friends in those areas, and they are all doing private school or do not have school-aged kids. That is where I would live if my kids weren't in K-12.
The North Bay would be a terrible commute to Berkeley. I had two colleagues who did it, one said it sometimes took him two hours to get in, or longer, if there was an accident on the bridge. His regular daily commute was still over an hour, even in low traffic. The other one comes in late (after rush hour) and leaves late, and only 2 days a week.
Congrats!
The Bay Area traffic is pretty tough, and neither of those commutes is great, but if I had to choose I would go the Hercules route, or what the other poster said and consider San Leandro.
Hercules has better schools than Concord, is closer proximity to Berkeley, Oakland, SF and Marin for weekend adventures, and there are lots of dog friendly parks close to Hercules. You can also drive from Hercules to El Cerrito BART and skip the worst of the traffic getting to and from Hercules to Berkeley. As the other poster mentioned though, location in Berkeley does count when considering a BART commute. BART will drop you off in the middle of town a short distance from campus, but if your work is in West Berkeley, you'll need a bike to get there from BART. If you work somewhere in the hills like the labs, you'll probably just want to drive.
There's a bit more going on in Concord and in Concord you can commute on BART and with a bicycle, which I would recommend over driving if you're not trying to spend 45 minutes in traffic for your commute. An EV will save you some time going to Hercules, but not a ton during the height of traffic, maybe 5 minutes. I don't believe there is an HOV lane on the 24 or the 680 on the stretch between Oakland and Concord, so it wouldn't necessarily save you any time on that route.
Commute-wise both are pretty terrible. The Concord schools can be pretty rough. Hercules isn't in the greatest school district, but there's a wider range of families income/education-wise that live there. Both communities are diverse, so whatever your background that should be comfortable. Someone mentioned San Leandro which is on BART, so for most places in Berkeley that would be a better commute. Also a little more walkable, at least downtown, than the other choices.
Have you considered El Cerrito? I really enjoy this community. Agree with the other poster about considering options near BART stations if possible, as the commute can be tough.I think you could also consider renting temporarily and seeing how you feel before settling down.
Thanks so much for taking the time to respond. This site is a fantastic source of knowledge!
By North Bay, I mistakenly meant Hercules—but clearly I’m still getting the geography down. We’ve not spent much time in the Bay Area, but there were some job opportunities on campus that we couldn’t pass up. We also didn’t know that there’s no HOV lane on 24–that’s an important piece of info that probably rules out Concord for us. Thank you!
We’ve looked into Moraga—a little too spendy for the size of home we need. We’ve also explored Montclair, which has the home size (and stellar views!), but it’s not especially great for older adults who love walks—my parents stay with us a for months at a time; and it seems a little isolated for the kids—we’re used to neighbor kids running around/biking from home to home, and Montclair doesn’t seem so conducive to that environment.
We’ve keyed in on Hercules because it seems to have the size of home/yard we need, decent schools, walkable/bike friendly neighborhoods, and the diversity we seek, all in our price range. Hopefully more homes pop up on the mat and the commute is workable for a few days/week. Thanks again!
Having grown up in Hercules, I may be a bit biased towards there over Concord. I personally like being closer to the water and the cooler temps it provides. Hercules is also closer to San Francisco/Oakland/Marin/Napa if you want to head in any of those directions for day trips. I will agree that there’s not as much to do within Hercules itself, but it is a great jumping off point to explore other areas.
I will echo what another poster has said, the HOV lane from Hercules to Berkeley can be a non-factor. Some days it can be great. Other times it is so congested it can move at the same speed as the other lanes. It also depends on what time you leave the house and day of the week. Once 7 AM hits, it gets much more crowded on the road. Driving home from Berkeley to Hercules congestion starts at 3 PM and will stretch to 7 PM. Factor on a 30-50 minute drive home. A drive from Concord to Berkeley would be hands down worse however.
To diversify your transportation options from Hercules, I would recommend taking the WestCAT JX bus (main stop at the Hercules Transit Center) to the El Cerrito Del Norte BART station and then ride BART in. It is about a 15-20 minute bus ride then a less than 10 minute BART ride to Downtown Berkeley. Of course this depends on where you are working in Berkeley and its proximity to BART or one of the free shuttle routes (Cal shuttle or West Berkeley shuttle). Driving in Berkeley near UC Berkeley while school is in session can be a pain.
You might consider looking in Richmond! We bought a house in East Richmond Heights a couple years ago and love it here. Lots of (“affordable”) houses pop up in Richmond North and East and sometimes in the hills. I work in Berkeley and avoid 80 at all costs - instead I take the residential route Arlington, which is pretty and peaceful (unless you get stuck behind a truck). There are also multiple other surface street ways to get to Berkeley and it takes me about 25 min. I also just started riding my bike to work on the Ohlone Greenway, which is a flat, protected bike path connecting Richmond, El Cerrito, Albany and Berkeley. Feel free to reach out if you’d like more specific location advice in Richmond. I’m also from the east coast although moved to SF over 20 years ago!