Adding on to a House
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Construction Cost Reality Check for bare-bones addition
April 2007
I live in a 1911 bungalow near Piedmont Avenue. We're planning on building a simple, barebones addition on the back of our house - essentially a two-story box with a family room downstairs and master bedroom/bathroom updstairs. No fancy built-ins or trim. Does anyone have recent experience with budgeting for a project like this? I've heard prices ranging from $200 to $500 per square feet. I'd like to get a rough handle of costs before sending out to get contractor bids. Shelley
Hi, My husband is a licensed general contractor--and as I was curious about your question I asked him what he thought. He replied for a truly ''barebones'' project, he estimates $250 per square foot, and the smaller the addition--the more expensive...in other words, there is inertia in the project--the larger your addition, the less cost to you per square foot. So, it would ultimately depend on your size and design. He has a masters in engineering and computer-aided design experience. Good luck with your project! Abby
Does a remodel/addition really cost that much?!
Sept 2006
We are shopping around our initial drawings from our architect to get a feel for what our remodel and addition will cost (before we spend any more $$ on drawings). We live in a small one story rancher (on a flat piece of property) and we are adding 1200 sq feet of new living space and a 440 sq ft garage. We have been quoted between $650,000-$750,000!! This is more than we paid for this shack!
Our finishes are in the mid range - Sierra Pacific wood clad windows, inexpensive tile on the kitchen floor, hardwood floors, stock cabinets, stucco outside etc. I understand that the 1.5 bathrooms and kitchen are expensive/sq foot but we did not expect the range we were given. We thought it should reasonably land around $500,000.
The other frustrating thing is that we would like to go as green as possible, but finding that you have to have bucko bucks to build green. We were quoted $19,000 alone on going solar!
Is it the market for building materials? The high cost of labor in the Bay Area? Contractors who think we can afford more b/c we live in Lamorinda? I'm looking at both big and small contractors for this job.
Has anyone else faced this type of situation on a remodel/addition. We cannot afford to move into another house within our school district nor can we afford what we are quoted to remodel. Any advice? Frustrated
I can't wait to see the responses to this one. We too had sticker shock when planning for our remodel. And we were shocked at how poorly the industry at large understands its clients, how to set and manage client expectations, and how to plan and budget based on client-set parameters. We were told to plan on $250-$500 per square foot. (!?!) So it's either ''X'' or ''2X''. Who can manage that type of a swing?
That said, our building costs are coming in around $300/sf. But please be sure they define ''square feet''. Is it just the floor space square footage? Or does it include the square footage of the roof too? What we thought was a 600 sf addition is actually closer to a 1200 sf addition because it needs a roof. (Really) Make a distinction between building costs and project costs which can include architects, engineers, permit fees, moving and living costs, etc.
I think the costs come from living in the Bay Area, a serious increase in the cost of materials, and the fact that remodeling requires connecting to existing structures which is more complicated than building from scratch. I've also heard several different methods of how architects and builders establish budgets: They determine when you bought the house and how much equity you have built in it and use that number as their target budget. OR They try and determine how much you owe on the house and estimate your yearly earnings. Then they shoot for having you leveraged between 5-10 years of your current salary.
If you pursue, start with clearly defining what is and isn't included in the price and, more importantly, define the entire process. What does each vendor require be in place for them to perform on their contract? ie: Does the architect need drawings of your current house in order to draw the remodel? (yes) Do you have those? Who does that work/pays for that work? Is it included in his/her estimate? Once you have a full picture of the whole process, you can competitive price and determine if/ how you can swing it. Good luck! I feel your pain!
A lot can have to do with location. But a good number to estimate with for cost of construction with basic finishes is $200 - $250 a sq. ft. This would not include design or permits or any new utility services. Hope this is helpful Pamela
I was told that a reasonable estimate for remodeling work should fall somewhere between $200 and $300 per sf. However, I imagine the price increases when you are going up a level, building new foundations, etc. How many people have you spoken to? Your quote seems like a lot (around $450/sf) but there may be extenuating circumstances. I also understand the cost of building materials has increased substantially in the past few years. We're in the same boat as you, but we're only adding on a little over 400 sf. It's still going to cost an arm and a leg! Remodel weary
To: Frustrated in Lamorinda/Looking for a Builder? I can relate to what you're going through. We spent the last year going through architecture/bidding/city Design Review/etc on our modest old ranch house addition in Lafayette and we're finally building now. Some of the bids we got were outrageous and we were quoted 9-12 months construction time which seemed daunting to be uprooted with 2 small kids (ours is a complete redo so we moved out.) We were so lucky to find a builder we absolutely love who is affordable, and fast (like 5 months start to finish), and he is doing some wonderful finish work like mouldings and raised ceilings that weren't even a possibility with the other bids we got. As far as the green materials, that is something we didn't dig in our heels about because we were just too close to our max. But I would be happy to talk to you more and give you his name if you'd like. Just let me know. Kristi
Considering an addition and kitchen remodel
March 2003
We are considering an addition and a kitchen remodel to our home in Lafayette. I guess i'm interested in anyones experience. From the permit process to hiring an architect/contractor, to actually living with the work being done. Also what kind of costs should be allocated to permits and drawings? Any insight/advise would be appreciated. I have checked previous recommendation and have not found what I'm looking for. Carole
You will need plans of the entire house, not just the addition. Your city wants to see engineering on even minor additions to be sure you have professionally calculated earthquake precautions.
The permit process has two stages- Planning and then Building.
Planning wants to make sure you comply with local zoning and aesthetics. After that 0-3 months, your plans go to Building for code compliance (smoke detectors, rating of insulation, etc) for a month or more.
You could spend 5-15,000 on this process. The permit fees are based on a percentage of the estimated cost of construction, which you can round down a bit. As for hiring a architect or contractor, you should feel comfortable talking with them and not feel condescended to or not listened to
Your contractor should be licensed, bonded, have workmen's compensation insurance and liability insurance. All of those protect you from responsibility for accidents that take place on your property. If you solicit multiple bids for your project, you will receive a wide range of prices. Why? First, not all contractors pay their taxes (payroll, income, business license, etc.) Why should you care? If an irritated neighbor or a building inspector (both will visit the job site regularly) stirs up trouble, your contractor may disappear and you could be left indefinitely with a home in disarray.
The other reason for a wide spread in prices is that many contractors, in learning to survive in a competitive field, have learned ways of cutting corners not visible to the homeowner. Using inferior grade wood, cheap paint, unskilled laborers, hiding mistakes are all common traits of the average contractor. 2 or 3 years out, problems arise and you will find that the average contractor will not stand behind their work.
I am presently business manager for Pearson Construction and I am proud of the way we fulfil our client's expectations while controlling costs. The primary way which we do this is by working on what is called a Time and Materials basis. That means that we have hourly rates for each grade of workman (like an architect, draftsperson or engineer) and do our honest day's work for an honest day's pay. This is particularly advantageous because clients almost always change their minds once or thrice during a project of any magnitude; this arrangement allows you do that without incurring possibly extravagant change orders which you WILL incur on a bidded job.
I'd be happy to discuss your job with you.
Evan
Estimating the cost of a 2nd story addition
April 2002
We are considering adding a second story to our home and would like to know how much it would cost us. What is the best way to find this out? I'm not sure who to contact for this, I know our foundation would need to be evaluated. How close are estimates to the actual price? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Jackie
We are still considering, after1 year, whether to add a 2nd story or move. I would suggest you talk with a architect and contractor TOGETHER and talk to several people. We thought we knew what the cost would be for our remodel based on initial discussions with a contractor and a review of our preliminary architect plans by a contractor. When we got actual bids, when we could get them, they were 50% higher than the high end of the range we had been given after the review of our plans. This was last spring and this year seems a bit better, but be prepared. The prices per square foot are between $200 and $300. Denise N.
I'm not sure how far you've progressed with plans for the potential addition to your house. If you're still just thinking about it and don't have much drawn up yet, you might want to hire a cost consultant(someone who is disinterested in actually building it) or pay a (reliable, established) contractor to do a preliminary estimate. Even with very minimal drawings, you'd be able to get an order-of-magnitude sense of the project cost (i.e. it's going to be closer to $150,000 than $15,000 or whatever)(and unfortunately, it will, by the way, be closer to $150,000 than $15,000...) If the project seems feasible, you'd want to hire an architect to draw some plans, and then I'd strongly recommend that you get another preliminary estimate at the end of the Schematic phase of design. That way, you'd get a sense of where the budget is going before you spend a whole lot of architectural fees to get a complete construction set of drawings and then find that the project comes in over budget. The accuracy of a preliminary estimate depends on a few things: 1) the level of drawings -- obviously, the more complete the drawings, the more accurate the estimate can be; and 2) the competency of the estimator -- unfortunately, lots of the less-expensive and smaller general contractors are very good in the field and not so good in the office. You'd be well advised to apply a significant contingency to the bottom line of any preliminary estimate you're given. If the estimate is based on a few sketches and a site vist, I'd recommend adding atleast 35% as a contingency. If the drawings are more developed, the contingency gets lower (even at a construction set of documents, I always show a 10% contingency). And I think it's important to accept the overwhelming likelihood that the contingency will be spent. Just to get you started, I'd say that the addition itself would be $175/square foot as a bare minimum, plus atleast a few tens of thousands for mucking around with the disturbed finishes and reconfigurations required on the first floor (assuming the addition doesn't trigger a seismic upgrade to the whole existing structure), plus whatever work is required to the foundation. And be prepared (financially and emotionally) that even with the most competent architect and contractor and the most decisive owner, through the fault of noone but the pipe that's in the wrong place and the utterly bizarre and unanticipate way they framed the ceiling in the original house, the project will probably take longer and cost more than you thought it would. (I'm a construction cost consultant; and a general contractor. NOT trying to drum up business.) Alysson
I looked into prefab/modular. At the time, I thought I would demolish the house, but it turns out that if I did that, the house would be subject to new, less desirable setbacks (distance from property line.) Anyway, modular looks attractive, but has a ton of constraints on lot size, elevation, if they can hoist a building over your power lines. I learned a lot from this architect Toby Long speciliazes in modular housing. He says it's about the same price, but has better quality and more predictable timelines. https://www.cleverhomes.net/projects